{"id":93,"date":"2014-07-11T08:24:00","date_gmt":"2014-07-11T14:24:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/?p=93"},"modified":"2019-07-11T22:36:20","modified_gmt":"2019-07-12T04:36:20","slug":"changing-face-in-escazu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/changing-face-in-escazu\/","title":{"rendered":"Changing face in Escaz\u00fa"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>When\u00a0we pull up to his Escaz\u00fa home,\u00a0Gerardo\u00a0Montoya hits play.<\/p>\n<p>Parade sounds\u00a0fill this sleepy neighborhood in the hills overlooking\u00a0Costa Rica&#8217;s capital city. Crashing cymbals and\u00a0snare drums\u00a0punch off time as we walk down the driveway towards a garage\u00a0workshop where our host awaits,\u00a0dancing\u00a0among the monsters he&#8217;s created, many of them\u00a0large enough to swallow a man whole.<\/p>\n<p>He cuts the music and announces:<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;Meet my second family!&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>There is el Chupacabra the blood sucking goat killer, just chilling next to\u00a0Martina the spunky abuela. There are grinning diablos crowding long-nosed brujas, witches in cahoots with their equally hideous boyfriends, the brujos. There\u2019s the hot pink-cheeked Rosita, a fat Spanish\u00a0madam who spends most of her time with the hairless, tirelessly ambitious el Calvo. There&#8217;s\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.gothic.stir.ac.uk\/blog\/La-Segua-A-Warning-to-Drunk-and-Unfaithful-Men\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">la Segua<\/a>, half beautiful woman, half dead horse. Her hobbies include hanging around water and scaring the pants back on unfaithful husbands. There\u2019s Pancho the humble rancher, El Chino the racial stereotype and in the back there is\u00a0Gerardo, a mask modeled after its maker, the likeness\u00a0uncanny.<\/p>\n<p>The &#8220;real&#8221; Gerardo Montoya beams\u00a0as he explains the family history. His grandfather was Pedro Arias, one of the most famous mid-century Costa Rican mask-makers or mascareros, who\u00a0defined an aesthetic style still used all over the country to make these paper\u00a0m\u00e2ch\u00e9\u00a0 &#8220;payasos,&#8221; beloved guests at\u00a0every\u00a0popular festival or celebration, prone to spontaneous dancing and the chasing of children.<\/p>\n<p>Montoya\u00a0founded this workshop about 20 years ago,\u00a0after hard times\u00a0drove the family to sell its farmland in Escaz\u00fa. Property values promptly sky-rocketed.\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.free-ebooks.net\/ebook\/Social-and-Cultural-Capital-Empowerment-for-Sustainable-Development-in-the-MOUNTAINS-OF-ESCAZU-COST\/html\/100\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Montoya has said<\/a> within three years\u00a0the\u00a0German investor who bought\u00a0that two hectare property\u00a0was offered\u00a0more than triple the amount he paid.\u00a0This kind of story is typical of the rapid transformation taking place in this increasingly affluent\u00a0cant\u00f3n, 8 kilometers from central San Jos\u00e9.<\/p>\n<p>To get to the mask\u00a0workshop, we first pass &#8220;new&#8221; Escaz\u00fa\u2019s towering condominiums, its gleaming skyscrapers and a colossal shopping mall. We don&#8217;t stop at Hooter&#8217;s, nor at the liquor store with an LED sign called La Bruja. We\u00a0ascend\u00a0narrow residential streets lined with locked gates, shiny cars and for sale signs featuring swimming pools. Near the end we\u00a0pass an\u00a0historic Catholic Church, a mural dedicated to cattle ranching and a 100-year-old adobe house where legend has it a\u00a0real witch once lived. Finally, we climb the\u00a0steepest grade\u00a0yet, toward the cloud forests of Pico Blanca. Half-way up we arrive at\u00a0Montoya\u2019s home and workshop, 200 meters past the water treatment plant where\u00a0he now works as a technician.<\/p>\n<p>That&#8217;s his day job, but \u201c\u2026This is happiness for me,\u201d he\u00a0says, motioning to the masks.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;To sell a mask would be like selling a son.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Though, he does have seven of them. (Sons, that is.) Two have learned to make\u00a0the traditional\u00a0masks, using\u00a0clay to create molds that are then covered in strips of newspaper soaked in yucca gum, left to dry, mounted on wooden or metal frames and painted. It\u00b4s a month-long process before\u00a0they are ready. Montoya doesn&#8217;t sell the masks, instead renting them\u00a0to municipalities for popular festivals, which abound in Costa Rica. Famous for exemplifying the Central Valley style, Montoya&#8217;s masks\u00a0were even used during the 1998 presidential inauguration of Miguel Angel Rodr\u00edguez.<\/p>\n<p>At our tour\u00a0Pedro Montoya, one of the seven sons, disappears under the skirt of a giganta, her gaudily made-up face and blonde hair a parody of a colonial Spanish due\u00f1a. He\u00a0begins to dance like there&#8217;s nothing at all precarious about this situation, flirting shamelessly\u00a0with our driver and facilities manager, Ricardo.<\/p>\n<p>Next we assume some strange forms ourselves.<\/p>\n<p>Upon reflection, wearing that mask and dancing like a maniac in Montoya&#8217;s driveway reminds me of learning Spanish\u00a0through immersion. The giddiness and the sweat. The sense that whatever I\u00a0want to convey is distorted by what I\u00a0can convey. Feeling foolish and realizing\u00a0that is actually kind of fun. The exaggerated gestures and lack of subtlety.\u00a0The smiles and the laughter. The art of not taking oneself too seriously.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: right;\"><em>-Emily Jo Cureton<\/em><\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/KW0MJM2hE3Y\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_213\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-213\" style=\"width: 777px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/Mask3.jpeg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-213\" src=\"http:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/Mask3-1024x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"Academia Tica students masquerade at Montoya's Escaz\u00fa studio, home to traditional Costa Rican masks  used for festivals around the country. \" width=\"777\" height=\"777\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/Mask3-1024x1024.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/Mask3-150x150.jpeg 150w, https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/Mask3-300x300.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/Mask3-100x100.jpeg 100w, https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/Mask3-862x861.jpeg 862w, https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/Mask3-1200x1200.jpeg 1200w, https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/Mask3-777x777.jpeg 777w, https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/Mask3-830x830.jpeg 830w, https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/Mask3-1184x1184.jpeg 1184w, https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/Mask3-864x864.jpeg 864w, https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/Mask3.jpeg 1600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 777px) 100vw, 777px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-213\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Academia Tica students masquerade at Montoya&#8217;s Escaz\u00fa studio, home to traditional Costa Rican masks used for festivals around the country.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: right;\">\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>When\u00a0we pull up to his Escaz\u00fa home,\u00a0Gerardo\u00a0Montoya hits play. Parade sounds\u00a0fill this sleepy neighborhood in the hills overlooking\u00a0Costa Rica&#8217;s capital city. Crashing cymbals and\u00a0snare drums\u00a0punch off time as we walk down the driveway towards a garage\u00a0workshop where our host awaits,\u00a0dancing\u00a0among the monsters he&#8217;s created, many of them\u00a0large enough to swallow a man whole. He cuts [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":233,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[32,36,31,1],"tags":[3,26,11,4,103,74,63,72,71,65,21,67,68,70,64,69,66,29],"class_list":["post-93","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cool-places-to-go","category-culture","category-student-life","category-uncategorized","tag-academiatica","tag-artisans","tag-coolplaces","tag-costarica","tag-costa-rican-masks","tag-emily-jo-cureton","tag-escazu","tag-excursions","tag-folkore","tag-gerardo-montoya","tag-history","tag-la-bruja","tag-la-segua","tag-mascaras","tag-masks","tag-myths","tag-pedro-arias","tag-sanjose"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/Mascarero-final-.jpeg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/ppNc8-1v","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/93","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=93"}],"version-history":[{"count":68,"href":"https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/93\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1004,"href":"https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/93\/revisions\/1004"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/233"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=93"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=93"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.academiatica.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=93"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}