The Best of Both Worlds

Academia Tica has two campuses. Both are situated in classic, well-maintained houses, surrounded by beautiful gardens and staffed by teachers trained in Instituto Cervantes methodology. But beyond the school walls, Jacó and Coronado as are different from each other as the beach is from the mountains.

Coronado

Coronado refers to a canton or county, half a dozen neighborhoods and villages that climb up the hills outside of Costa Rica’s capital city. It is literally in the middle of the country, equal distance from the Caribbean and Pacific coasts, from Panama and Nicaragua. Eons ago these temperate highlands were formed by volcanic eruptions. Today part of the forests have been cut into pasture, producing food and dairy products for the valley below, a metropolitan area of 1.8 million people, nearly half the country’s total population.

The church is at the heart of Coronado, a short walk from the school.
The church is at the heart of Coronado, a short walk from the school.

With a geography that relates as much to cloud forests as urban plazas, and a cultural identity linked to cattle ranching, Coronado is a mixing point. Parts of it look like country scenes: herds grazing emerald seas, grandmas selling cheese off front porches, families with backyard trout ponds serving up the freshest fish imaginable.

Yet, there are unmistakable signs that for thousands of commuters, city life begins here. Walled modern homes abut cow pastures. People brunch and work on their laptops at a gourmet bakery and coffee bar. A family-run soda sells typical “casado” plates: heaps of rice, beans, sweet plantains and salad for about $2.50 USD;  while the menu and prices at nearby Papa John’s Pizza chain could be anywhere in the world. In the town’s busy center, life revolves around an impressive neo-Gothic-style Catholic Church.

Minisuper
Hand painted sign for a fresh fruit and vegetable super near the Coronado school.
The National Theatre is one of many cultural meccas close to Coronado.
The National Theatre is one of many cultural meccas close to Coronado.

The bus costs about 60 U.S. cents. It can take you in two general directions: up or downhill. Up heads towards Las Nubes, a village appropriately named The Clouds, known for cool climate, incredible views and agriculture. Here you can go horseback riding, catch your own lunch or visit a pristine cloud forest. Further up is Cascajal and Monserrat, the latter immersed in the dense cloudforests that limit with Braulio Carrillo National Park. Down leads to central San José, epicenter of urban culture and government, where dozens of theaters, busy markets and museums await.

Because Coronado is relatively unchanged by foreign tourism, ordinary stuff like buying food, going out for coffee, getting a haircut and practicing common courtesy are all part of everyday life and your Spanish language education. Buy fresh fruits and veggies every week at a farmer’s market that brings producers from all over the region, or pick up your goods at a small shop down the street with a charming hand-painted sign.

Jacó Beach

Jacó is the nearest popular beach to San José and an easy morning drive from Coronado. The 2.5 mile long sandy beach break offers consistent swell year round, with bigger waves to the North and smaller, beginner-friendly waves to the South. Tethered to this famous beach are innumerable restaurants, hotels and bars, along with hospitals, major stores and most any amenity one could look for. Many students customize their schedule with Academia Tica to include stays at both Coronado and Jacó Beach.

A few generations ago, Jacó was home to a few dozen families, rice fields and roving cattle herds. People tumbled in and out by rock road, taking a ferry across the crocodile-infested Rio Grande de Tárcoles to access distant hospitals or go to the movies in bigger towns to the Northeast. By the mid-20th century people here began to rent palm-roofed cabañas to visitors from the Central Valley and abroad. Today Jacó is book-ended by luxury resorts, a smooth highway delivering visitors from all over the world. People come for the beach, the party scene and the wild places still a stone’s throw from this rapidly developed hub for Pacific Coast tourism.

Enjoying the warm water and friendly waves in Jaco .
Enjoying the warm water and friendly waves in Jacó Beach.
One of many colorful characters in Jaco.
One of many colorful characters in Jacó.

Just 25km/15 miles North of Jacó you’ll find Carara National Park, a protected tropical rainforest, which has one of the biggest wild populations of colorful scarlet macaws. It is not just a heaven for bird lovers. The park is home to some of the country’s largest American crocodiles, sloths relaxing high up in the trees, different monkeys, frogs and birds.

One of the country’s most famous (and smallest) parks, Manuel Antonio, is located about 65 km/40 miles South of Playa Jacó. Exploring the lush green rainforest and remote beaches on the many trails, you will easily spot mammals like lazy sloths and cute squirrel monkeys as well as frogs, iguanas and many kinds of birds.

Jaco has consistent waves for all levels year-round.
Jacó Beach has consistent waves for all levels year-round.

 Jacó Beach is not only surf. Close to the town (and the school) you can go zip-lining, take a dip in watefall ponds, enjoy the nightlife, go rafting or just sit back, relax and enjoy a cold drink in the tropical setting.

Academia Tica recommends that you try a bit of both locations and experience all the differences in culture, people, nature and just the general town dynamic. This will defninetively help you get a more integral view of what Costa Rica is, always with the same quality of Spanish tuition!

A trip to Mercado Central

The Central Market of San José is a feast for the senses, filled with fresh fruits, veggies, flowers, medicinal plants, clothes, souvenirs, seafood, pets, handicrafts, you name it! Before devling into these bustling aisles during a recent class excursion, Prof Mireya gave a spiel about the capital’s commerical heart:

“The Mercado Central is located between Avenidas 0 and 1 and Calles 6 and 8. It was established in 1880 and declared national patrimony in 1995. Part of the building dates to the end of the 1800s and part was built in the 1940s. The market’s narrow aisles are always full of life, with their own manifestations of popular culture, from typical food and handicrafts, to herbs and ways of speaking.”

“Està ubicado entre las avenidas 0 y 1 y las calles 6 y 8. Fue establecido en 1880 y declarado patrimonio nacional en 1995. Una parte de su edificio data, precisamente, de finales del siglo XIX y otra fue construida en los años 40 del siglo pasado. Sus angostos pasillos siempre están llenos de vida, con manifestaciones propias de la cultura popular costarricense como la gastronomía, la artesanìa, la herbolaria, y también las formas de hablar.”

Mercadocentral

Just a few of the souvenirs at the Mercado Central in San Jose, Costa Rica.
Just a few of the souvenirs at the Mercado Central in San Jose, Costa Rica.

Piñata, café y ping pong

Nuestro querido estudiante Eli es el nuevo campeón de ping pong de la academia. El mismo día de su cumpleaños ganó el torneo y recibió una piñata por parte de sus compañeros, que después reventó con mucho esfuerzo.

Esta misma semana visitamos el centro de San José y el Mercado Central. Comimos en una auténtica “soda” tipica y descubrimos que a todos nos gusta el cas.

La última actividad a la que asistimos la semana pasada fue la visita a un beneficio y plantación de café. Aprendimos sobre el proceso del café y luego visitamos el parque de Barva en la provincia de Heredia. La pasamos muy bien en todas las actividades, ¡aquí están las fotos que lo demuestran!

Corinna, Eli y Agathe tratando de golpear la piñata.
Corinna, Eli y Agathe tratando de golpear la piñata.
La vida estudiantil nunca es aburrida.
La vida estudiantil nunca es aburrida.
Interactuando con la comunidad.
Interactuando con la comunidad.
Nuestro grano de oro.
Nuestro grano de oro.
Aprendiendo sobre la vida en el cafetal.
Aprendiendo sobre la vida en el cafetal.

Our dear student Eli is our new ping pong champion. He won on his birthday and recieved a “piñata” from his fellow students. That same week, we went on a city tour to down town San José and visited the Mercado Central where we ate and discovered that we all like cas (tropical fruit).

The last activity of the past week was the tour to the coffee mill and coffee plantation. We learned a lot about the process and also visited the town of Barva de Heredia. We had a really good time and here are the photos that prove it!

El Sabor: Taste a la Tica

“El Sabor, el Sabor!” – This friendly shout fills Academia Tica’s patio every school day at noon, when hungry students flock towards the sound of Caribbean music and the wide smile of Don George. He emerges from a van and opens the side door to reveal baskets and coolers brimming with treats, which hungry students have been yearning for throughout the morning’s intensive Spanish classes.

And it´s not just any food, either. Don George specializes in typical fare from the Caribbean part of Costa Rica in addition to snacks like hamburgers, sandwiches, brownies and cheese cake. Everything is home-made by George and his wife every morning. He is always willing to explain every type of meal to students if they are about to eat something for the first time and often he also lets you try some things before you buy. Even after several months of living and studying at Academia Tica, it is still possible finding new things in George’s van and to not yet get “fed up” at lunch.

Here are some meals you should have a go at:

George with his famously delicious rice and beans.
George with his famously delicious rice and beans.
  • Empanada de pollo: a pastry made of cornmeal and filled with spiced chicken, typically eaten in Costa Rica as a snack while having a (black!) coffee
  • Patí: similar to an empanada but stuffed with minced beef and available in three different levels of spiciness – watch out for the red cross on the paper bag!
  • Vigorón: the typical Costa Rican picnic dish comes with yucca, tomato, cabbage and crispy pork crackling
  • Ceviche: a fresh fish cocktail with lime juice, chili and cilantro
  • Arroz con pollo del Caribe: in contrast to the Costa Rican much-loved “Gallo Pinto” (rice and beans) this meal is enriched with coconut milk. George serves it along with chicken, salad, fried plantain and a fruit juice.

And for those of you with a sweet tooth:

  • Pan de yucazanahoria o banano: a piece of delicious cake of yucca, carrot or banana – not too sweet and very moist/mellow
  • Tamal: there are three different types of “tamales” made from cornmeal. George offers the sweet “Tamal asado” which looks a bit like German cheese cake
  • Cocada: a sun-shaped pastry from Jamaica with a sweet and spiced coconut stuffing
  • Arroz con leche: this cup of sweet rice pudding with cinnamon is one of the students’ favorites
  • Tresleches: a typical Nicaraguan dessert brought to Costa Rica by the immigrants. The sponge cake is soaked with three types of milk and topped with a rich cream. Sometimes George adds strawberries or cacao to give this cake a special note.

…just to name a few!

 

Horsing around

The hand-painted sign showing two bridled horses does not point towards a fancy place. Turning down this stone driveway off the main road through Las Nubes will not deliver you to a state-of-the-art equine training facility. Nor are these lush pastures described in any Lonely Planet guidebooks. Yet, the animals grazing these hills speak volumes about the culture of Costa Rica’s Central Valley, where horses are not just historical throwbacks but remain essential for work, getting around and showing off in distinctly Tico style.

About 5 km from the school “Coronado a Caballo” offers informal, very affordable “cabalgatas” ( trail rides), based out of a modest stable with 50 or so well-cared-for horses, frequented by Ticos much more than foreign tourists. The Costa Rican saddle horses raised here are colloquially known as “criollos,” descended from Spanish and Peruvian breeds. Some are trained to make impressive, dance-like movements, with dramatic knees and dropped noses, like someone who sees a spider in every step. The trail horses are less flashy, with smooth sure-footed gaits even in rough terrain.

The hills and farms east of our Coronado campus certainly qualify. While only a short distance from the most densely populated and urbanized cities in the country, much of the highlands are still only accessibly by horse, motorbike or 4×4 vehicle. The road to Las Nubes disintegrates into skeins of rock and mud about 10 km from the school as it passes near the edge of Braulio Carrillo National Park.

Horseback riding provides unique panoramic views of the Central Valley below, the Cordillera Central mountains and cloud forests above. Plus that sense of freedom and possibility that for whatever reason, only seems to come when you’re a meter off the ground on the back of a trusty horse.

The light and the land in Coronado, San Jose, Costa Rica.
The light and the land in Coronado, San Jose, Costa Rica.

 -Emily Jo Cureton